Monmouth museum cap pattern
evolution
The evolution of the patterning of this particular extant
hat by modern knitters.
By Stephanie Goodchild, SCA THL Caelfind ingen Failtigerna
Description
The Cap from Monmouth
“The Welsh
border town of Monmouth was a centre for cap-making from 1520s to about
1585. Monmouth caps were of
peculiar design and were sold far and wide, becoming well known throughout
England.” (Rutt, 58)
“Little has
been recorded of their appearance, except that they were round, brown, and topped
with a button.” (Rutt, 58) There
is a particular cap at the Nelson museum in Monmouth that many have attempted
to recreate and analyze. “It was
knitted in the round on four needles, entirely in stockinet, felted and
shorn. The dark wool is course thick
2 ply, knitted at a tension of 1 stitch to a centimeter (3/4 in).” (Rutt, 58)
The Yarn
During this time in history the common techniques used for
yarn making are woolen yarns as opposed to worsted ones. “The crucial
difference between worsteds and the woolens that supplanted them in the
thirteenth and fourteenth centuries lay in the fulling and finishing
processes.” (Oldland, 97) A woolen
yarn will lend itself to the fulling process more readily than a worsted yarn
will due to its structure of hairs lying in multiple directions rather than
parallel, as in a worsted yarn.
“Shearman dressed the cloth by repeatedly napping the cloth with teasles
and cutting it with shears, gradually lowering the nap, to produce the smooth,
silky feel.” (Oldland 98).
Although this seems to be a very well known technique and
many assume it was done to all woven wool garments, today the cap has very
sharp stitch definition.
Whether this is an effect of time and degradation is unclear.
First Attempt:
Rutt interpretation
of the Monmouth cap
Needles: size 6mm,
Yarn: Threads and Loops: Cozy Wool (wool/acrylic blend) super bulky, 2-ply.
Cast on 59 stitches (it was recommended by Baroness Camilla
to use a knitted cast on)
The brim of double fabric was shaped by increase or decrease
at end of ea needle on 3rd round inside and outside hem.
The hem is 8 rounds deep
The cap is shaped with a decrease 3 times every 10th
round at end of ea needle in 10th and 30th round
It is decreased in the middle of each needle in 20th
round
After the 30th row, 50 stitches remaining
Decrease every 3rd and 2nd stitch in
alternate rounds until 8 stitches remain
The remaining stitches are drawn together and topped with a button
A loop of 14 stitches is added at the back
The museum hat is measured by Rutt to be:
20cm (8 in) deep
55cm (22 in) circumference
My sample was 3.25 sts to the inch
5 rows to the inch.
The finished hat is 20” circumference and 8 7/8” deep
Picked up brim at knitted cast on and knit up into hat for
brim. This looks incorrect on the
bottom edge. I may have misinterpreted what the Baroness’ opinion was of the
brim section, but I thought that was what she recommended.
Second Attempt:
Ravelry pattern
by “Neen”:
Needles: 8mm
Yarn: doubled Lion Brand Fisherman’s Wool (100% wool,
worsted weight) as recommended by pattern.
Gauge: 2/5-3 sts to inch
Backward loop cast on 62 sts
Turn and knit back, and then join in the round.
Brim is 8 rows.
Decreases begin at round 17 and are more gradual than Rutt’s
description.
Cast off with 11 sts.
Wrapping the tail around the bunch and then stitching through the bundle
to create the “button”
Pick up on row 8 and knit down to original cast on from the
inside.
Three needle bind off after turning the hat to the right
side.
Chain stitches to create the loop.
My sample:
3 stitches to the inch
4.5 rows to the inch
overall size:
20” circumference, and 12” deep
Instructions say to “felt down to size”
Third Attempt
Using my own hand spun 2-ply Shetland wool.
Gauge is approximately 2.75 stitches to the inch.
4 Rows to the inch
Hand made 8mm 12 inch dpns (made by my lord for this project
J)
Using the museum image for a visual estimation of stitches
and decreases, and the size description by Rutt.
Museum piece only appears to have six rounds of stitches for
the brim.
Cast on 60 sts using backward loop method (as in 2nd
pattern).
Two rounds knit.
Decrease fourth stitch on each of three needles on third
round (visual from museum).
Continue knit rounds until round 19.
Decreases begin.
20: 1 decrease
at the beginning of each needle
21: 2 decrease
at the middle of each needle
22: k1, *k2
tog, k3* repeat to end of round
23: k2, k2 tog
repeat to end of round
24: k2 tog, k1
repeat to end of round
25: k2, k2 tog
repeat to end of round
26: k2 tog, k1
repeat to end of round
Using bind off method from Humphrey’s pattern as it gives a
very close visual approximation to the museum piece. The work must be turned to the outside for the bind off to lay
flat on the outside of the cap.
Pick up stitches on round six on the inside of the hat.
(counted rounds on museum cap)
16 finger crochet stitches for loop.
Findings:
The measurements from the Rutt book say that the hat it only
8 inches deep and yet I estimated 50 rows to the hat from the museum
photo. That would be 6.25 rows to
the inch and yet only 3 stitches to the inch. The knitting does look compact but not distorted. I would have to say that the smaller
needle size would definitely be needed to achieve close to this row gauge. I am wondering about the accuracy of
these measurements from Rutt.
Works Cited
Rutt, Richard.
“A History of Hand Knitting” B T Batsford Ltd, London: 1987.
Oldland, John.
“The finishing of English woolens, 1300-1550.” P97, Medieval clothing
and textiles 3. The Boydell Press,
New York: 2007.
Hammarlund, Lena et alia. “Visual Textiles:
A Study of Appearance and Visual Impression in Archaeological Textiles.”
P69, Medieval clothing and textiles 4.
The Boydell Press, New York:
2008.
People to Thank for their input:
Colleen Humphreys “Neen” on Ravelry
Sally Pointer “SallyinWales” on Ravelry
Sarah
“MsMcKnittington” on Ravelry
Chris Laning “Claning” on Ravelry, SCA (Dame) Christian de
Holacombe from the Kingdom of the West
Baroness Camilla
